I've tried a (preliminary) German translation:

!! ACHTUNG !! WARNUNG !!

Wenn das Gerät an den USB-Port angeschlossen ist liegt auf der rechten Seite der Platine (zwischen den Markierungen R22 und R23 nach rechts) eine Gleichspannung von ~400V an die durchaus gefährlich für Ihre Gesundheit sein kann.

Die rechte Hälfte der Platine nicht anfassen, wenn sie benutzt wird!

Sobald der Spannungswandler in seinem Steckplatz steckt und der USB-Anschluss angeschlossen ist übernehmen Sie die volle Verantwortung für mögliche Stromschläge und/oder Verletzungen!

Von Kindern und Haustieren fernhalten!

Um den Sensor laufen zu lassen benötigen Sie:
- eine Kiste, um den Sensor und das Geiger-Müller-Zählrohr (GMZ) hinein zu tun
- 2 ca. 7-10 cm lange isolierte Drähte mit isolierten Krokodilklemmen
- Schraubendreher
- ASB-Kabel A<->B (wie zu Drucker oder Scanner)

Zu Ihrer Sicherheit wird der Sensor mit ausgebautem Spannungswandler ausgeliefert.
Um den Sensor betreiben zu können müssen Sie die Anzeige mit einem Schraubendreher lösen und ausbauen. Unter dem Display, in einem schwarzen Schwamm, ist der Regler des Spannungswandlers eingepackt. Er sollte so in den Steckplatz auf der rechten Seite gesteckt werden, dass ein kleiner Punkt (kreisförmige Vertiefung) auf dem Gehäuse des Wandlers auf der rechten Seite unten ist (mit der Bezeichnung IC3).
Dann das Display wieder montieren.

Der nächste Schritt ist der Anschluss des GMZ, das Teil des Strahlendetektors ist. Zwei Drähte, möglichst verschiedenfarbig gekennzeichnet, müssen mit dem blauen Schraubklemmen, die mit CON3 (und den Worten "GM-Tube") gekennzeichnet sind, verbunden werden. Das mit (+) gekennzeichnete Ende des GMZ muss mit einem der Krokodilklemmendraht an die Klemme mit der Markierung + angeschlossen werden, das ohne Kennzeichnung entsprechend mit dem anderen Drahtan das ohne Markierung.

Der Sensor sollte in eine nicht-leitende Kiste, möglichst durchsichtig (um das Display ablesen zu können) eingebaut werden. Das GMZ darf die Platine nicht berühren, und das Ganze sollte nicht in der Kiste hin und her klappern.

Schließen Sie das USB-Kabel an und denken Sie daran, danach nicht mehr die rechte Seite des Sensors zu berühren!

If you (or any other readers) finds anything wrong, please tell me ;)

____________
Gruesse vom Saenger

I think your detector is illegal in most countries because the user is not protected from the high voltage. You really should design the PCB to fit into a plastic box. Boxes are cheap and they often come with mounts inside to screw the PCB to. It would take extra work to cut a hole for the USB port, the LCD and leads to the GM tube but you are taking a great risk of selling a dangerous, illegal product and going to court for killing someone. You could eliminate the LCD and have 1 less hole to cut.

You have put a warning on the front page but it's only in English and it might get pushed off the page if you add other news items. Therefore it is not an adequate warning. Also, when people read the warning they will not want to order a detector because to them it will sound very dangerous. Protect yourselves and your project. Put the detector in a box and remove the warning from the front page. On each box put a label that has an international symbol of high voltage inside. With each box send a warning printed on paper in as many languages as possible, even if the warning is translated by Babel Fish online translator. Then if somebody gets hurt you can at least say you tried to provide adequate warning.

Also, a box will make the detector look more professional which makes it easier to sell. A few euros added to the cost won't deter people from buying a professional looking product.

How high is the voltage?
IF I recall this device is powered by USB?

USB is 5V 500mA standard if I remember correctly for the high powered mode.

even at 50 Volt that's 50mA max, hardly lethal.

at 100 Volt you'd get 25mA which you would definately feel but again not lethal unless you put it temple to temple maybe.

I understand your concern about the voltage, and people being careless, or just plain stupid and getting popped.

on the court thing, in the USA, yes our laws coddle the ignorant, but them being in poland, not sure how bad their lawa are compared to ours.

He also have the protection of selling it as a 'kit'. IF they are not able to put it in a box up front, they could sell it as a 'kit' explain specifically that it is a kit, the user needs to 'assemble it' and the USER has the responsibility of protecting themselves from any potential voltages. Simply state that us the END USERs, are responsible for boxing it up.

At this point, if I want to box it, it's up to me, if I get shocked because I didn't its MY fault, I was warned. Granted now, the typical american tard might go running for a lawyer, but common sense should prevail.

I know several other companies that sell... products.... from overseas to the USA in kit form. This helps them get it past customs, and possibly avoid fees. I know some 'devices' that an american can easily buy from overseas that assembled are 'illegal' but disassembled are just fine.

Aaron

Did you bother to read the warning on the front page? It's 400 VDC! Even at low amps that's enough to stop your heart.

Yes, a warning and a suggestion to box it helps but if the warning is not clearly visible in the user's language then it does not qualify as a warning, not in your country, not in my country, probably not in any country.

Also, they're trying to sell to the average person. The average person sees 400 volts and thinks "Why should I spend money on a device that seems rather dangerous to me when I don't even see an urgent need to have that device?" The average person doesn't know how to box up a 400 volt device properly. There's just too many unknowns in his mind. His first impression is going to be "I don't need that!" and he'll click through. When you want to sell something you want to make it appear as safe as possible and as convenient as possible. Telling people "this is dangerous unless you box it" is just bad salesmanship. Put it in a $2 box and THEN try to sell it.

Besides, if they kill someone in the US they could be extradited from Poland to the US to face charges. Why try and get around the law when for $2 you can be in compliance with the law?

Also, they're trying to sell to the average person.

Also, they're trying to sell to the average person.

That's rubbish, they sell it to nerds like us.

OK, in a country were coffee cups have to be labelled as containing hot coffee, that may hurt you if you spill it in your groin it may be a problem, but in normal countries of course not.

Also, they're trying to sell to the average person.

That's rubbish, they sell it to nerds like us.

That's rubbish, only a few of us are nerds.

How many Volts will be on the krokodylki?
Will it be the 400VDC or less?
So will the krokodylki have to be isolated for that current or will normal ones like those here cut in half be sufficient:

Also, they're trying to sell to the average person.

That's rubbish, they sell it to nerds like us.

That's rubbish, only a few of us are nerds.

We're talking about a beta-testing detection kit, that enthusiastic nerds like us could order to broaden the test field.

FWIW, there are many kits for sale that have even higher voltages kicking around: Guitar amps and hifi amps are two that spring to mind. I dare say valve ('tube', if you must) based ham radio kits are still available.

Their approach seems to be "If you don't know about high voltages, don't buy it as you may kill yourself".

As for this project, I'd say that 100% of the purchasers are 'enthusiasts' and as such will actually read the instructions and heed them. Producing the 'consumer' nicely-boxed version is going to be expensive. The company I run abandoned importing some perfectly safe products from the USA because the cost of gaining CE approval initially made it quite risky for a new venture. It all comes down to volumes and dilution of compliance costs.

Anyhow, you can buy Tasers, defibrillators (and all sort of other extremely hazardous stuff) online, no questions asked ;)

I can't see that this project has done any worse than any other group of enthusiasts, but I understand the concern of some people.

Looking forward to getting my kit. I already have a super-deluxe tupperware box waiting to safely engulf it :)

Al.

FWIW, there are many kits for sale that have even higher voltages kicking around: Guitar amps and hifi amps are two that spring to mind. I dare say valve ('tube', if you must) based ham radio kits are still available.

Their approach seems to be "If you don't know about high voltages, don't buy it as you may kill yourself".

As for this project, I'd say that 100% of the purchasers are 'enthusiasts' and as such will actually read the instructions and heed them.

Producing the 'consumer' nicely-boxed version is going to be expensive.

Anyhow, you can buy Tasers, defibrillators (and all sort of other extremely hazardous stuff) online, no questions asked ;)

I can't see that this project has done any worse than any other group of enthusiasts, but I understand the concern of some people.

How high is the voltage?
IF I recall this device is powered by USB?

USB is 5V 500mA standard if I remember correctly for the high powered mode.

even at 50 Volt that's 50mA max, hardly lethal.

at 100 Volt you'd get 25mA which you would definately feel but again not lethal unless you put it temple to temple maybe.

Forget the calculations, I highly doubt that the HV supply used on sensor board could provide more than a couple of miliampers. The main risk could be the shock from touching the output capacitor leads, unfortunately it can provide lots of current for a very limited period of time. For safety, do not touch powered sensor with both hands, also do not touch the sensor and PC case at the same time. It is best to disconnect it, the HV goes away a couple of seconds after disconnecting from USB.

Let me add another post.
Again, the thing is being sold AS IS, if you are so very afraid of electrocution, then go out and buy the 2 dollar container YOURSELF. Tin Foil hats are extra.

Hell, use a liter coke bottle and tape it back together afterwards with the cord running out of the cap hole. Make a slit in the side of the bottle, slide the cord in and through the cap hole, then slide the board into the bottle, glue or tape the slit shut, rtv up the hole and presto, instant waterproof container.

Aaron

Let me add another post.

Again, the thing is being sold AS IS, if you are so very afraid of electrocution, then go out and buy the 2 dollar container YOURSELF. Tin Foil hats are extra.

Dragoth, with an avatar of what looks like bush and crossbones, it shows you are bed wetting panzy assed leftist moron.

ASScholtoen, you're obviously another one of those braindead, snot nosed, needle dick, repuglicans who still thinks there was WMD in Iraq just prior to the invasion.

You obviously know very little about electricity by your postings, yet try to pretend you know all.

My little toe knows more about electricity, liability and guilt than your entire party of repuglican retards will ever know.

For those who wish to be educated; .100 amps is generally what it takes to kill someone if it is held for a second or more. some folks go by the school of .050 amps. If this thing is a few orders of magnitude less .0004? was it, it's not going to hurt you anymore than a static charge from rubbing your feet on the carpet.

Maybe you better outlaw carpeting and low humidity you buffoon.

Maybe you better do what you and every piece of repuglican crap like you longs to do and take a long hard suck on my asshole :-)

To the designers of the device. There will be people who bitch about everything no matter what you do, they won't be happy. Most of them cried and left the US to go live in Canada to be with their half uncle cousins. You are doing a good job, keep it up. I can't wait to get my hands on one of these to try it out myself.

To the designers of the device: there will always be retarded Americans coming to this forum bitching about anybody who doesn't think like them (though their country is rated next to Somalia) and think that eveybody who lives in Canada came from their shithole of a country. Ignore them.

Hey ASScholton, get off your sister, it's your father's turn!!

I wish to say thank you for that post dago, you have just proven my point beyond a doubt and let the world see what type of person you truly are.

Maybe you can use your gamma detector to find WMD's and save the world eh?

Wow, you are funny, I mean that in a good way, I needed a good laugh, and seeing how easy your strings are pulled, well... it's funny.

I do wish to post a warning to the makers of this device though. Dragoth is a type of person, in America we call a liberal idiot. Others would use words such as parasite, leech, freeloader, stuff like that.

I do wish to post a warning to the makers of this device though.

Dragoth is a type of person, in America we call a liberal idiot. Others would use words such as parasite, leech, freeloader, stuff like that. This is the type of individual that really has no individuality, is pretty much a sheep, and is not one of those types who are very well educated or can take care of themselves. His type relies mostly on the government, subsidies, and whatever hand outs they can grab from those who do support themselves for sustenance. This is the type of person who is always looking for a handout or a free ride. This is the exact type of person who will run in front of a bus then try to sue the bus company, pour hot coffee in their laps, and cry they didn't know it was hot, and try to sue. Anything for a handout or free ride. I bet drago also lives with his parents still, even though he is in his mid 30's.

Right now it appears that dragy smells a potential free ride here. He will scream loudly about the dangers of your device, pretend he got 'hurt' with it, then run to one of his lawyer friends and try to sue you bleating 'i told them so' all the way, trying to parasite off of your hard work and efforts, just like his type have been doing all their lives.

Most people who are employed and self sufficient would say, 2 bucks for a box is no big deal, i can handle that.

To dragoth however, that 2 dollars is 2 hours on his knees in the bus station, 2 hours he can't be playing world of warcraft. To him it IS a huge deal, as we have seen by his multiple posts bemoaning the lack of one. Essentially, your lack of a provided box, means he has to get his stretched out again to afford one for the project.

I guess we should commend him for 'Taking one for the team'.

But, we all are very far OT, the mods would be right to delete all these posts, starting from Ascholten up to and including this one.

But, we all are very far OT, the mods would be right to delete all these posts, starting from Ascholten up to and including this one.

Please do not delete ASScholten's posts. They are testimony to the stupidity and hypocrisy of repuglicans and how much they love being stupid hypocrites.

Please hide (at least) all off topic posts with trash mouth language, name calling, abusive comments and insults to people.
-
The rules say posts must be kid friendly, this certainly is not and I certainly would not recommend this project to anyone with children or even schools if this negativity continues without positive action.
-
It also is distressing to me to read this kind of stuff, even though the flame war is between other people.
-
This forum has become very unfriendly and I no longer feel like participating here.

To everyone else involved, I apologize for my comments in the forum. They were out of line and mods, please feel free to remove them or whatever you wish to do with them. I do not wish to detract from the effectiveness of your project here.

To get back on topic.

You said you sent the devices out, any idea about how long it will take for them to reach the US, and Id say Canada since were pretty much connected give or take a day or three.

Aaron

I was thinking about this today and I have a technical question.

It gets it's power from the USB port right?
Let's assume somehow a catastrophic failure occurs. What are the chances of the high voltage being shot back up the USB cable to the computer and causing damage?

Granted now if someone spills a drink on the thing, well yes, all bets are off, but lets say, a more 'normal' failure, if there is such a thing, how well isolated is the HV side from the low side?

A small pip to someone's finger won't do much harm, but a computer circuit now, normally running at 5 Volt, getting hit with 400, that could be another story.

Aaron

Has anyone got their sensors yet? I'm in Spain but has yet to get mine.

I was thinking about this today and I have a technical question.

It gets it's power from the USB port right?
Let's assume somehow a catastrophic failure occurs. What are the chances of the high voltage being shot back up the USB cable to the computer and causing damage?

Both sides share common ground, so they're not entirely isolated. However, most if not all hardware failures on the HV side will result either with shorting the HV to ground (which may damage the onboard 34063) or no high voltage at all.
On the revision 2 board USB is protected from short circuit on the sensor (could happen for example if 34063 gets damaged) by a 10 Ohm resistor in series with the +5V DC. It limits the current to 500mAmps.

Granted now if someone spills a drink on the thing, well yes, all bets are off, but lets say, a more 'normal' failure, if there is such a thing, how well isolated is the HV side from the low side?

I believe most of the drinks are poor conductors, unless you drink salt water or something like that. Any conducting liquid would probably cause overload on the HV side and a huge drop in voltage. I think that only a low resistance short directly from the secondary side to +5V or data lines on USB could potentially do some damage.

Alesandro, it sounds like you want to use the bluetooth for communications. I do not see why this would not work if you can somehow convince the computer that the 'bluetooth' is USB data. If this is doable it actually is a really good idea because then the device could be placed several feet away from the computer and wireless linked into it without having a tether to bother with. I also see an easy power supply to make it totally portable via a SLA battery with a little converter like you plug into your cigarette lighter hooked to the battery for those who wish to further experiment. I wonder if there is a way even to tether it to a cell phone to send the data via a wireless card to really extend the range.

Lots of potential here.

Aaron

TJM, so if you spilled a coke or pepsi or other 'beverage' on the thing you believe it would be a poor conductor? I would think that with all the sugar and crap in them and the phosporic acid in coke and citric acid in many of the others, it'd actually be a pretty good electrolyte.

Edit: I just played around a bit, using a fluke it was hard to get an ohm reading because the meter jumped around. A Hi Pot Tester showed almost no resistance really.

Using a volt meter now, and dissimilar metals, coke is a good electrolyte and it made a battery that depending on the metals .. I played with aluminum / copper / brass / steel / silver, you can get a bit over half a volt from it.

With current running through it now, I bet this would strip / screw up a board very quickly. If the board traces are copper, they will take a lot of damage fairly quickly.

Even if it didn't conduct electricity where it didn't belong, the soft drink would mess up the board. Beer now probably wouldn't so we need to ditch the soda's and drink beer for the benefit of the project here :D

Aaron

krzysztof.
Thank you for the info however the gps coordinates of the sensors you post, could possibly put someone at the front door of one of the folks with them.

Some folks may not wish their home locations known like that. Just an observation.

[/img]

Hmmmm. These are VERY difficult problems, toddlers touching the HV and getting zapped/killed, conductors falling/spilling on the HV components/traces, etc.

Hmmmmm. How can we possibly solve these mind boggling problems?


<thinks like a liberal>
<thinks like a liberal>
<thinks like a liberal>
<thinks like a liberal>

Hey! I know... Has anybody thought about the project devs buying at bunch of plastic boxes (cheap in volumes) and mounting the circuit board in the box? Or would the additional $2 added to the cost and the professional look a box adds to the device discourage people from buying it? Would a box make the device look too darn intelligent/liberal?

(Suggest repuglican retards sleep on this suggestion before responding or risk proving they're still dumber than a bag full of smashed rectums.)

krzysztof.
Thank you for the info however the gps coordinates of the sensors you post, could possibly put someone at the front door of one of the folks with them.

Some folks may not wish their home locations known like that. Just an observation.

Locations are given by users on their hosts preferences site. Simply when first WU come back from host and validate you get a map in host preferences to give your position. It's opt to you that you give us your exact position or street 500 yards/meters from you...

Thanks TJM!

That's understandable TJM and thank you.

Aaron

Looking at the first results from my sensor, it seems that I live in a quiet neighbourhood - around 0,11 uSv/h.
____________

Yes, I set it to a few hundred meters from where I live. Does it show up ok on your stats?

In this case quiet is NOT a bad thing!!

Sensor arrived, connected, first WU returned, validated and credited :)

Nobody died ;)

Al.

Sensor arrived, connected, first WU returned, validated and credited :)

Nobody died ;)

Al.

Does the chart with the readings show up on your posts after you plug a box in or do you have to add something to your profile to make it work or ??

Nice box Kenneth it looks very professional. How much did the box cost you about two bucks? Where did you get it at?


Thank you
Aaron

You need to add an image tag in your sig to referenence draw.php with your sensor id as a parameter. I'll try it now ...

Al.

____________

You need to add an image tag in your sig to referenence draw.php with your sensor id as a parameter. I'll try it now ...

Al.

Al, that's a very low average radiation you have, where is your sensor placed?

Im not sure of the diameter or the length of the actual geiger type tube but maybe a holder like a set of fuse clips for the little glass fuses? or the larger cartridge fuses might work? Bolt the holder down and run the wires to it. The clips are easily found and should handle a good 600Volt if you use an industrial like cutler hammer, siemens, ABB etc. I think even the standard 125 volt ones for projects should handle the voltage the thing uses, and a piece of electrical tape has a dielectric strength that will easily shield any potential grounding to nearby metal.

Aaron

Thanks Szopler. That's good to know because a fuseholder will hold the tube much tighter than alligator clips will and be much less prone to falling off if / when the box is moved about.

For Americans, im thinking you can find them at just about any radio shack or electronics / electrical supply place. The hardware store might even have them. Id be careful of automotive stores because those might not have the full 600v rating since they deal with 12VDC and not household currents.

There's always E bay too.

Aaron

Actually TJM what I was thinking of was use it to hold the tube. Since the tube has up to 400 volts on it, you would want something that can handle this voltage without breaking down.

The holders do also come with a black plastic / phenolic backing on them as well, some with holes in the ends to screw them down onto something. Just thinking of keeping it from eventually eating it's way to somewhere it shouldn't be if the holder / plastic can not take that voltage.

The reason I said 600 Volt is because I think that is the standard for all stuff good to 125Volt, which is the most common in the US. Even the wiring in your house, although it carries 120 / 240 Volt, the insulation is good for 600 Volts. That is what I was aiming at, not that it HAD to be 600 volt insulation. Some of the clips that you can get cheaply, like at an automotive store, might only be rated to 100 Volt, since they typically only see about 12 VDC, which could eventually give you problems.

Unless I am mistaken, the metal ends of the tube, isn't this where the power hooks up to?

Thank you for your reply.

Aaron

For the bare clip no, there is no voltage rating but many of them as I have mentioned before come as an assembly. Mounted on plastic or phenolic or some other substance. That does have a voltage rating.

I am having problems with posting a picture directly into my post here so I will provide a url of what I am talking about.

http://chinakls.en.made-in-china.com/product/RqwmQBGoHzkV/China-Fuse-Holder-RoHS-Pb-Free-.html

This isn't exactly what I am talking about but gives you an idea.

The voltage rating on the fuse IS for the fuse itself, you are correct, but the fuse holders also have a rating on them as well as to the maximum safe voltage they can handle. This picture I provided a link to, those are rated at 250Volt it appears.

in this application, since you can get voltages up to 400 on the tube, these specific clips would not be suitable because eventually the voltage can break them down, and if they were mounted on metal, short out.

Aaron

This 6 metal ends at CON2, that are covered with a sponge, what are they good for? Or better: What are we supposed to do with the sponge and the connector?
____________
Gruesse vom Saenger

This 6 metal ends at CON2, that are covered with a sponge, what are they good for? Or better: What are we supposed to do with the sponge and the connector?

I've been told, that the picture is only to see if you are logged in to SETI-Germanys Forum, so here's it again, viewable for all.

____________
Gruesse vom Saenger

That's pretty cool all the different ways people are figuring out to house their detectors.

We should set up a topic just for the purpose of people being able to show off their creativeness doing this.

Aaron

Alesandro, it sounds like you want to use the bluetooth for communications. I do not see why this would not work if you can somehow convince the computer that the 'bluetooth' is USB data. If this is doable it actually is a really good idea because then the device could be placed several feet away from the computer and wireless linked into it without having a tether to bother with. I also see an easy power supply to make it totally portable via a SLA battery with a little converter like you plug into your cigarette lighter hooked to the battery for those who wish to further experiment. I wonder if there is a way even to tether it to a cell phone to send the data via a wireless card to really extend the range.

Lots of potential here.

Aaron

As there was one important line inserted after my tranlation, here's the updated version:

Da eine wichtige Zeile eingefügt wurde nach meiner Übersetzung, hier noch mal die korrigierte Version:

!! ACHTUNG !! WARNUNG !!

Wenn das Gerät an den USB-Port angeschlossen ist liegt auf der rechten Seite der Platine (zwischen den Markierungen R22 und R23 nach rechts) eine Gleichspannung von ~400V an die durchaus gefährlich für Ihre Gesundheit sein kann.

Die rechte Hälfte der Platine nicht anfassen, wenn sie benutzt wird!

Sobald der Spannungswandler in seinem Steckplatz steckt und der USB-Anschluss angeschlossen ist übernehmen Sie die volle Verantwortung für mögliche Stromschläge und/oder Verletzungen!

Von Kindern und Haustieren fernhalten!

Um den Sensor laufen zu lassen benötigen Sie:
- eine Kiste, um den Sensor und das Geiger-Müller-Zählrohr (GMZ) hinein zu tun
- 2 ca. 7-10 cm lange isolierte Drähte mit isolierten Krokodilklemmen
- Schraubendreher
- USB-Kabel A<->B (wie zu Drucker oder Scanner)

Zu Ihrer Sicherheit wird der Sensor mit ausgebautem Spannungswandler ausgeliefert.
Um den Sensor betreiben zu können müssen Sie die Anzeige mit einem Schraubendreher lösen und ausbauen. Unter dem Display, in einem schwarzen Schwamm, ist der Regler des Spannungswandlers eingepackt. Er sollte so in den Steckplatz auf der rechten Seite gesteckt werden, dass ein kleiner Punkt (kreisförmige Vertiefung) auf dem Gehäuse des Wandlers auf der rechten Seite unten ist (mit der Bezeichnung IC3).
Dann das Display wieder montieren.

Anschließend den kleinen schwarzen Schwamm an der Goldpin-Schnittstelle (CON2) entfernen.

Der nächste Schritt ist der Anschluss des GMZ, das Teil des Strahlendetektors ist. Zwei Drähte, möglichst verschiedenfarbig gekennzeichnet, müssen mit dem blauen Schraubklemmen, die mit CON3 (und den Worten "GM-Tube") gekennzeichnet sind, verbunden werden. Das mit (+) gekennzeichnete Ende des GMZ muss mit einem der Krokodilklemmendraht an die Klemme mit der Markierung + angeschlossen werden, das ohne Kennzeichnung entsprechend mit dem anderen Drahtan das ohne Markierung.

Der Sensor sollte in eine nicht-leitende Kiste, möglichst durchsichtig (um das Display ablesen zu können) eingebaut werden. Das GMZ darf die Platine nicht berühren, und das Ganze sollte nicht in der Kiste hin und her klappern.

Schließen Sie das USB-Kabel an und denken Sie daran, danach nicht mehr die rechte Seite des Sensors zu berühren!

As the current detectors are no longer to assemble at home, perhaps you should unstickify this thread ;)
____________
Gruesse vom Saenger

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